A headline for a retirement annuities flyer declares “Future
Secured!” Was your reaction like mine? Yea, sure!

Is our financial future ever that secure? Maybe for a few. But for the majority of us this is not true. Stock market changes, health costs and inflation fears all contribute to a sense of insecurity

You may have a good retirement pension and 401k plans but is it enough? How much control over our financial security do we have?

There are some things we all can do to feel more secure. Reducing debt is a good place to start.

Paying down credit card balances, car loans and home mortgages are good goals to work toward.

And saving or building a nest egg is helpful too. In fact, if
you’re paying down your home mortgage, you may also be building equity in your property which is a form of savings.

Another way to save is to reduce your cost of living. Nearing retirement means you are no longer tied to a certain location.

If you can find a town you like that has lower cost of living including home prices, you could moving there. Maybe invest in a place as a rental or vacation home until you’re ready to move
into the property

There are many places out there that may be your perfect retirement get-away. Do a little research on the internet. Find those hidden treasures. It’s worth the effect.

Dot McLeod is webmaster for http://www.best-towns-to-retire.com with many resources on retirement planning.

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If you borrowed more than 80% of the appraised value of you home, you’re probably paying private mortgage insurance (PMI). PMI that is not lender paid is a waste of money. If you default on your mortgage, the private mortgage insurance provider will pay the lender, but you still would lose your home. PMI do not offer you any benefits whatsoever. PMI payments aren’t even tax-deductible.

PMI increases your effective mortgage interest rate. On a $100,000 loan with 10 percent down ($10,000), PMI would cost you $43 a month. If you can cancel the PMI, you can save $516 a year and many thousands of dollars over the course of the loan. If your down payment was less, the cost of your PMI will be greater. If your down payment was 5%, ($5,000), your PMI expense would cost you $780 a year or $65 a month. Check your annual escrow account statement or call your lender to find out exactly how much PMI is costing you each year.

When you purchase a home and put down less than 20 percent down, most lenders will require you to purchase PMI. You are purchasing insurance to protect the lender if you default on the loan. The Homeowners Protection Act of 1998 establishes rules for automatic termination and borrower cancellation of PMI on home mortgages. These protections apply to certain home mortgages signed on or after July 29, 1999 for the purchase, initial construction, or refinance of a single-family home. These protections do not apply to government-insured FHA or VA loans or to loans with lender-paid PMI.

New borrowers covered by the law must be told, at closing and once a year, about PMI termination and cancellation. Mortgage providers must provide a telephone number for all their mortgage borrowers to call for information about termination and cancellation of PMI.

Even though the law’s termination and cancellation rights do not cover loans that were signed before July 29, 1999, or loans with lender-paid PMI signed on any date, lenders or mortgage providers must tell all borrowers about the termination or cancellation rights they may otherwise have under those loans (such as rights established by the contract or state law).

The following applies for home mortgages signed on or after July 29, 1999. Your PMI must - with certain exceptions - be terminated automatically when you reach 22 percent equity in your home based on the original property value, if your mortgage payments are current. Your PMI also can be canceled, when you request - with certain exceptions - when you reach 20 percent equity in your home based on the original property value, if your mortgage payments are current.

One exception is if your loan is high-risk. A cash-out refinancing would be considered high-risk. Another is if you have not been current on your payments within the year prior to the time for termination or cancellation. A third is if you have other liens on your property. For these loans, your PMI may continue. Ask your lender or mortgage provider (the company that collects your payments) for more information about these requirements.

The following applies for home mortgage signed before July 29, 1999.

You can ask to have the PMI canceled once you exceed 20 percent equity in your home. But federal law does not require your lender or mortgage service provider to cancel the insurance.

Some states may have laws that apply to early termination or cancellation of PMI - even if you signed your mortgage before July 29, 1999. Call your state consumer protection agency for more information about your state’s rules. Contact your lender or mortgage provider to learn whether you’re paying PMI. If you are, ask how and when it can be terminated or canceled. Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac, which buy home mortgages from lenders, also may have guidelines affecting termination or cancellation of PMI on home mortgages signed before July 29, 1999. Check with your lender or call Fannie Mae or Freddie Mac, for more information.

Copyright © 2005 My Big Fat Mortgage All Rights Reserved.

About The Author
George Burks of http://www.mybiweeklymortgagepayment.com has offered a biweekly mortgage payment plan with no enrollment fees since 1999. His interest in financial topics is varied and includes identity protection. Please visit our financial library.

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If you want to borrow money from a lender, you’ll quickly learn how important your credit score is. Lending institutions will almost certainly take a look at it, and may well approve or decline your loan based on what they find. A bad credit score can also mean you’ll only be offered loans with interest rates significantly higher than standard rates.

Basically, a credit score is a number calculated by analysing the details of your credit history. Whenever you do anything that involves credit, it’s recorded. The lender takes all of your credit history, enters it into a computer, and the computer then calculates your credit score. Various credit-ranking agencies use different software, so it’s quite possible that you’ll get a different credit score with each one. However they’ll all still fall within a similar range.

Sometimes, credit scores go by the name of FICO scores. Fair Isaac Corporation (FICO) developed the software most commonly used to determine credit scores, and that’s where the name comes from.

Your credit score is compiled from a number of different parts of your credit history, and each one contributes to a different degree. Each factor is assigned a different percentage in the calculation of your credit score. Some of these factors include amounts owed, payment history, and the types of credit you currently have. So let’s take a look at the various factors in more depth, and what percentage of your credit score they will generally represent.

Payment History

Payment history includes your history of amounts paid and when, and particularly late payments. Obviously lenders like to see no late payments, as someone with a history of late payments is going to be a much bigger risk for them. Payment history accounts for 35% of your credit score.

Amounts Owing

30% of your score is based on any loans or outstanding debt that you currently have. The lender will look to see how many accounts you owe money to, and the total balance of all your amounts owing. They’re also keen to see that you don’t have access to much more debt, in terms of lines of credit or credit cards, in case you have the opportunity to overextend yourself.

Length of History

Obviously, if you have a good credit history stretching back for a number of years, that’s going to work in your favour. Lenders will look to see how long various accounts have been open, and whether there’s been any activity in those accounts. History accounts for 15% of your credit score.

Types of Credit

10% of your FICO score is allocated to analysis of the number and types of accounts you have. Lenders tend to prefer diversity, so they’d rather see a variety of account types, not just credit card accounts.

New Credit

Another 10% of your credit score is based on recent activity in your credit history. Lenders get nervous when they see a lot of recent history, particularly if the credit that was applied for has been knocked back. This tends to send warning signals that you’re in trouble, or may have the opportunity of overextending yourself. Never apply for a loan with more than one lender at a time - a batch of 10 applications all hitting your credit report around the same time will make it almost impossible for you to get an approval.

Now that you understand the factors that make up your credit score, you might be wondering what sort of number is considered a good credit score. Mostly, credit scores fall between 350 and 850. The higher your score is, the better your credit. Lenders like to see high scores, because that suggests that you’re a low risk borrower. A lender will feel comfortable that they’re a lot more likely to get their money back from someone with a high FICO score, because these people have a good, solid history of paying their debts on time and generally demonstrating good money management skills. So a high credit score means you’re low risk, and have a much great chance of your loan application being approved.

But if your credit score isn’t that high, what can you do to improve it? It doesn’t happen overnight, that’s for sure, but the sooner you start practising good money management skills, the sooner you will see your credit score rise. Always pay bills on time, and as far as possible keep your credit card balances low. Don’t open lots of new accounts in a short space of time just before applying for credit.

It’s also worth checking the information on your credit history to make sure it’s accurate and up to date. If you find anything that’s incorrect, apply to have it altered or removed. Even a few small changes may be enough to get you over the line with your next loan application.

None of this is rocket science - obviously lenders want to limit their risk, and your credit score says a lot about you and your money management skills. Remember, it’s not just a question of how much debt you currently have - lenders are looking for longer-term history showing up to date payments and generally good financial management.

So even if you don’t have plans to apply for credit in the immediate future, make the effort to keep your credit history as good as you can, because it will pay off in the future.

Find lots of other useful credit score information at Home Loan Zone Central and Bad Credit Solutions Zone

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